exploring the world one step at a time.
So you are given 12 months off work, what do you do with it? The world is home to so many incredible places, it is almost impossible to choose a direction to travel. Sometimes, you just have to go and get after it and see what happens. That is exactly what we aim to do. With one year, two cameras and a whole host of awesome destinations in the diary – why not come along for the ride!
Salta Province
A colonial city in the middle of some of the worlds most ridiculous scenery, Salta is a must visit if you are in Argentina. Much like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, Salta could be viewed as a great point from which to travel to other parts of the world. From here, Cachi, Cafayate, Humuacha and Jujuy are all in reach within a few hours. But – why Salta can gain this comparison is that whilst you are in the city, albeit it briefly, it won’t disappoint for sights to visit, music to absorb and food to taste.
With every potholed Street, one becomes more aware of their surroundings in northern Argentina. It is here that the people became more native, the food was served with less frills and the pride of the nation shone through flags, smiles and conversation.
Bustling markets and populated plazas seemed to be the heart of this city. Dogs barked the trodden path and locals heckled their fruit offerings on street corners, whilst elderly residents earnt their space on park benches.
If you want to explore unearthly landscapes and enjoy a wonderfully Argentinian city in the process – book that flight to Salta. You won’t be left asking why you went!
Our personal experience and Top tips:
How to get around:
Cars rule here people. The beauty of this place is in the surrounding areas and you’ll want to get amongst it. Trust us. If you don’t – trust the number of car hire companies in the city centre! Buses are infrequent and won’t allow you to stop at your pleasure and explore untraveled roads and distant landscapes. Just suck up the cost and get into a car – it will be worth it – I promise.
We rented a little Chevrolet from FitCar from the airport in Salta. A pretty banged up thing – but to be honest that’s how you want it. You’ll probably bring it back with a few scratches at the least. The roads up here are nothing to write home about and you’ll be bouncing along gravel roads within a few days of arriving. Just make sure you get as much insurance as you can – then when the inevitable rock clangs into your undercarriage you won’t be stressing – just embracing everything the ride has had to offer to the experience.
Be sure to download maps me – it won’t let you down – even in the areas with very poor signal.
Where to eat:
In Salta – we ate at Jovis Dos – a beautiful little restaurant in the heart of town. The service is punctual and the food is fantastic. If you don’t look out the window, you could mistake the place for a Parisian cafe or restaurant. The waiters are dressed up to the hills and we enjoyed the freebies before the meal. Warm bread with sumptuously prepared vegetables. Small touches go along way people!
If you have time to spare – don’t miss Cafe Convento. Superb little spot just off the main square. Their spread of cakes will leave you salivating and they taste even better when the come to the table. The coffees are traditional and the vibe in the cafe will make it hard to leave!
Got another evening – head to Barcace Street where the bars are awash with local Pena music. Don’t be enticed by the street vendors – pulling you in at inflated prices – look for locals and any of the we fine bars will leave you feeling entertained for the whole night.
Where to go from Salta?
Day one – take the road to Cafayate. It will start pretty slow and you’ll question why you have chosen to drive on the wrong side of the road, with perilous potholes every few meters. However, stick with it. Soon the road will empty and the rock will redden. Your eyes will feast on some of the worlds finest scenery from towering rocks, to vast desert. Along the route – don’t miss the devils throat and the amphitheater – both super spots which will take your breath away. Make sure you take some water and a few snacks – the road took us about 4 hours – including stops – and there is very little on route!
When you get to Cafayate – which you can’t help but love – make sure you stop for a tortilla on your way in. An old lady serves the best tortillas we ever had on the corner of the square. Just what you will need after the long ride over!
Then we stayed at Rusty-K hostel – a gem of a place. It feels quirky and clean – with impeccable service! Make sure you get it booked up – you won’t find better!
If you still have time / make sure you have time – head to Piatelli Vineyards – just out side Cafayete – a beautiful spot above the town. Ask for a bottle of their house rose and sit yourself on their terrace to watch the sun go down over the mountains. The rose is superb – the views even better! If you still have the urge to travel through more wine – I don’t blame you – we did, head to Chatos wine bar. His service, his knowledge and his English will make for an impressive evening drink. Black Toty restaurant will complete an outstanding day. Get 1/2 a Parilla between 2 and you’ll be left feeling very well fed!
Day 2 – drive the back road from Cafayate to Cachi. Ok so the road isn’t paved and the drive will be a little uncomfortable – at least for the first hour before it becomes the norm! But the road and the assault on the bumper of your car is worth every scratch. The progressive terrain becomes almost like something you will see on the moon. The road twists and turns through varying undulation and extraordinary terrain. Some of the photos you get will leave even the most intrepid travel photographers asking questions. When you arrive in Cachi – we stayed in an air BNB in Cachi Adentro called casa de campo – the perfect venue to rest and unwind after a tiring days drive. If you want some food – viracocha in town is the place.
Day 3: head north towards Jujuy. You’ll pass the Ruta de TinTin – a straight road. Ok so that may be underselling it. The place is truly breathtaking and worth stopping to fully take it in. From there you will surge north over the mountains and through the national park of the cactus. The road is paved and great fun to drive – some of the stops are truly awesome. If you can stomach it with the twisting roads, be sure to pick up the tortilla at the summit. I have no idea what the herb is that is sprinkled over the cheese But damn it is tasty!
Day 4: drive north to Permuraca and Humuacha. You’ll stumble across Purmuraca first. A quaint little village at the foot of the 7 coloured hill. The streets are dressed with colourful rugs and clothes ready to be snapped up by eager travellers. Locals offer warm epinadas for those wanting foods. Take some time here to enjoy meandering the narrow streets and snap some photos along the streets.
From Purmuraca to Humuacha is a little town called Tilcara. A must stop for me. A beautiful mountain town nestled in the hills. Essentially, Tilcara is a long street with everything to make you feel at home for an evening or two. Cosy hostels, cute cafes and some bustling restaurants. You’ll find it hard to leave this little corner of the world. But when you do – the drive to Humuacha will remind you why you did. The road is unpaved and treaturous in places, but meanders its way to 4350 metres with a sensational view at every turn. At the top – especially good at sunset – take some time to enjoy the awesome sight of a 14 coloured mountain.
Buenos Aires:
Vibrant, colourful, eclectic and eccentric. This city tickles a number of senses and fills your mind with a sense of pride, happiness and excitement. It is a city of juxtaposition – from economics to pace. One minute you’ll be racing through stunt like traffic, fearing for your life To the next – waiting patiently for a simple order in a cafe or for a coke to be poured delicately into a glass. Similarly, economically this city, like so many in the third world has a stark contrast between the Uber wealthy gated communities and stale Puerto Madero-esk environments – to the unbecoming, harsh neck of the woods like the outskirts of La Boca.
But it was that which makes this vibrant city exciting. Every corner you turn seems to throw up a different array of architecture, a unique smell and a change in population. A constant – beeping cars and the sound of regaton and Hispanic music flooding out of Smokey cafes and bars. At night – this place seems to come alive – people start to emerge from every crevasse and bars start to pump up their music. The traffic dies down and the lights get brighter, people here certainly know how to party long into the night.
If you are keen to stay on your toes and be immersed in vibrancy – this place is a winner.
Our personal Experience and Top Tips:
How to get around:
The subway is an experience – you should try it. It is similar to that of the NYC subway or the Tube in London. People clammer for space and the less fortunate fight for your attention for any spare pesos in your pocket. We certainly were entertained by fairly average musical interludes and offered hand made cakes a handful of times. Yet, for the experience, you also get around the city in the most economic fashion – both time and on the wallet. One journey costs you 19 pesos – and the city is well covered.
Next up is Uber – seems to be taking over the world right! But in BA – Uber felt pretty stealthy. Uber is not yet legal in the city – so you have to pretend you are being picked up by a friend – jump in the front and make sure you say Tarjeta – don’t get caught out and pay twice…happens to the best of us! We took Uber’s everywhere and the drivers will share their pride and stories with you! A slightly better performance than those witnessed on the subways is watching them swerve and wieve in and out of fast moving traffic. Buckle up and enjoy the ride. – a ten minute journey will cost you 2/3 quid!
What to see:
Ok so the city is pretty vast and getting around seems to take a bit of time – but if you like a walk – you won’t be disappointed in this city. Walking allowed us to navigate from one Bario to the next – taking in everything as we went.
Start with a little trip to Recreo Cemetery A slightly bizarre place but one which illuminates Argentina’s rich history and strong Christian routes. Take an hour or so to meander between the tomb stones and don’t be scared to peer into them – you see some weird and wonderful things. A highlight is the grave of Evita Perdon – the Diana equivalent in Argentina from what I can ascertain.
Next up – grab a drink in the outdoor bars near recreo – in the evening the place comes alive and it is a nice way to pick the mood straight back up to where it needs to be having walked around a cemetery.
The Congress building is worth a look – it is very grand and you can get some great photos from the park just in front of it. This is also a cool part of town to walk through and admire the fountains and soak in the local atmosphere.
Walking from there – head towards the presidential palace and the Placa de Mayo – a wonderful part of town which feels very much like the heart of this city. This was the epicenter and it definitely felt as though everything was filtering into this focal point. If you are lucky – catch the changing of the guard whilst you are here. The Argentine army have a sumptuously strange mode of marching – see it to believe it.
Then We stepped inside the church of St Martin in the north west corner of the square – pretty cool to think the Pope led his services from the pulpit not that long ago.
Leaving Plaza del Mayo – I would highly recommend a stroll into St Elmo. St Elmo is thick with history and the quirky stores which line the narrow, cobbled streets will keep you entertained for hours. When the time comes to recharge and taste some local cuisine – look no further than the indoor food market at ST Elmo. The choice is off the charts and the empanadas on the way in are delicious. You’ll thank me!
La Boca is a really awesome place. You can almost feel the culture and the vibrancy as you wieve through markets and the colour slapped walls. A highlight Here is the awesome street art as well as the local tango dancers!
From here make sure you get a taxi – word on the street is that the surrounding areas are a little sketchy – head to Puerto Madero. Incredible how the environment can change in such a small distance. This is like the Canary Wharf of the city. Spectated physically by the river and metaphorically in every sense of the word. Nonetheless, a little stroll along the promenade and a drink in a cafe on the river bank is a nice way to spend an afternoon.
Then head to Palermo for the evening – the choice of bars and restaurants is staggering. Stumble across one you fancy and you won’t be disappointed, whatever the time of day. Brekkies at Serendipity, Lab, Arlos and the Juice Up bars are all worth a visit. The coffee culture is seemingly exploding in Buenos Aires and of you like your coffee you will be spoilt for choice. Lab was my favourite – the cafe has an awesome vibe and the lattes come perfectly smooth and just the right temperature. For medialunas and pastries – look no further than Don Blanco – their fridge of goodies gets you salivating and their bakery section is awash with ridiculously tempting offerings. My eyes were certainly bigger than my stomach, but you can always take away!
The shops in Palermo are fun to walk around and they are punctuated with cool restaurants serving up the freshest home made pastas and local dishes. Whichever restaurant you stumble into will leave you wanting more.
Then – in the evening we went to Vita – a hidden gem in this vibrant part of town. Once you have made your way through the rigerous security – being patted down by a rather rotund woman – you push through large red curtains and you are met with a beautiful floor to ceiling bar of spirts – akin to something of oceans eleven or casino royale! Waiters serve up tapas between 7-9 and then the music gets louder and the room gets fuller. BAs swankiest youngsters to take to the dance floor and party long into the night. Drinks aren’t cheap but the experience is worth getting stuck in to!
I was reminded this morning by a good mate that we are not part of a race. It is hard to stay conscious of this, when the last few days have been centred on franticly tying the ends of lose knots and seeing relatives and friends before the wheels leave the tarmac. However, as we sit here, about to embark on one of the most exciting years of our lives I can’t help but think how many people have said to me “you are so lucky, I wish I could do what you are doing”.
And it seems to me, why can’t they? Why are we all so determined to stay on the track and not leave our lanes? After all, it only took us 5 months to save the funds we needed to make this possible. There are endless parts of the world to explore and if the job wont keep your position, there are plenty more for you to make an impact in when you get back.
However, with expectation ahead, it dawned on me why – despite so many people saying this, perhaps there is good reason why people don’t drop everything to go do this.
Over the course of the last few months I have thought about loved ones I may never see again, colleagues who may move on at work before my return, parts of neighbourhoods which will change in my absence. Whilst they are all out of my control, whether I am here or not, there is a sense that you are missing out of the more mundane, trivial parts of your day to day.
There is no question that the anticipation of the trip have made me, if nothing else, recognise and appreciate the day to day, more mundane aspects of life. So, even before the throttle has been pushed – positives have started to foster.
Similarly, I have always been encouraged to follow the career ladder. Get a good degree. Get a good job. Work hard and impress – to move up a ladder. But, from the anticipation of going away I have come to realise that a career is so much more than you are led to believe when at school or university. It is not just a vehicle for making money. Rather, it can – if you allow it – become something that defines you, sets your routine and enables you to socialise. As a result of giving up the routine, the identity, the friends for a year, it has certainly left me feeling a little anxious and made me question what the purpose is? What am I going to do each day…for a whole year?
But having analysed my day to day as it is – from rising each day at the same time, rushing along the south circular to get in on time, to returning in the dark to a meal shared with a tired partner. It is hardly a routine worth celebrating. Just as my career being the sole thing which defines me, is not what I would like to be identified by.
Perhaps the apprehension and anxiety of leaving the comfortable existence of SW11 – just for one year – might be just what is needed. If nothing else – it might make me open my eyes a little more to the beauty on the south circular, or the incredible fortune I have to live in such a great city…It seems the benefits are already rolling in – let’s get after it!
So who are we? Just 2 teachers from London, on a little adventure around the world. Nothing special. Nothing serious. Just excited to experience something new and hopefully grow.
Why do this?
Two Teachers Travelling